Publication: Bayburt ehram yünü ve Hatay ipeğinin zeytin yaprağı ile renklendirilmesinde farklı mordanların renk verimine etkisi
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2022-12-30
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Abstract
Zeytin yaprağı (Olea europaea L.) olarak bilinen bitkinin yapısında tanen, reçine, uçucu yağ
ve organik asitler bulunmaktadır. Bu çalışmada Olea europaea L. boya özelliği gösteren
ekstaktı kullanılarak hayvansal içerikli yün ve ipek kumaşların boyanma özellikleri
araştırılmıştır. Çalışmanın kaynağını %100 yün lifiyle, bezayağı örgüde dokunmuş Bayburt
Ehramı ile %100 ipek lifiyle, bezayağı örgüsünde dokunan Hatay ipek kumaşı
oluşturmaktadır. Doğal boyarmadde olarak Türkiye’nin birçok bölgesinde yetiştirilen zeytin
ağacının yaprakları, mordan olarak bitki tanenleri sınıfında yer alan meşe palamudu (Quercus
Aegilops) ile sitrik asit (C6H807) ve potasyum alüminyum sülfat mordanları
(KAl(SO4)2.12H2O) kullanılmıştır. Boyama öncesi yünlü ve ipek kumaşa mordanlama işlem
uygulanmıştır. Her bir mordan maddesi için beşer farklı konsantrasyon seçilmiştir.
Mordanlanmış numuneler ayrı ayrı zeytin yaprağı ekstraktı ile boyandıktan sonra renk
verimleri Konika/Minolta (3600d) yansıma spektroskopisi (Realcolor yazılımı) kullanılarak
K/S değerleri elde edilmiştir. K/S değeri, Kubelka-Munk denklemine göre hesaplanmış ve
CIEL*a*b* (L*,a*,b*,C* ve h°) koordinatları tespit edilmiştir. Uygulama işlemi sonucunda
tatmin edici renk tonları elde edilmiştir. Ayrıca, zeytin yaprağı ile boyanmış numunelerin
yıkama ve ışık haslıkları tespit edilmiştir. Bayburt Ehramı’nın Z. Yaprağı ile C6H807 mordanı
kullanılarak daha açık ve daha mat yeşil-mavi tonları, KAl(SO4)2.12H2O mordanı daha açık ve
daha canlı yeşil-sarı tonları, Quercus Aegilops doğal mordanı ise daha koyu ve daha mat
kırmızı-mavi tonları elde edilmiştir. Mordansız boyamada en büyük renk farkı
KAl(SO4)2.12H2O mordanı ile bulunmuştur. Yıkama sonrası renk değişimi sırasıyla
KAl(SO4)2.12H2O mordanı, C6H807 mordanı ve Quercus Aegilops doğal mordanı olarak
belirlenmiştir. Asetat, Pamuk, Poliamid, Poliester, Poliakrilonitril ve Yüne lekelemeler
açısından mordanlar arasında belirgin bir farklılık oluşmamıştır. Işık haslığı sonucu elde edilen
en yüksek renk farkları Quercus Aegilops doğal mordanı ile yapılan boyamalardan elde
edilirken, en düşük renk farkları C6H807 mordanı ile yapılan boyamalardan elde edilmiştir.
Renk verimi en yüksek boyamalar C6H807 mordanı ile yapılan boyamalardan elde edilmiştir.
Hatay İpeğinin Zeytin Yaprağı ile C6H807 mordanı, kullanılarak yapılan boyamalarında renkler
yeşil-sarı tonlarında daha mat ve daha açık elde edilmiştir. KAl(SO4)2 .12H2O mordanı
kullanılarak yapılan boyamalarında daha canlı ve daha yeşil-sarı tonları elde edilmiştir.
Quercus Aegilops doğal mordanı ise daha koyu ve daha canlı kırmızı-sarı tona çekmektedir.
Mordansız boyamaya göre en büyük renk farkı KAl(SO4)2.12H2O mordanı ile yapılan
boyamalardan elde edilmiştir. Yıkama sonrası renk değişimi en yüksek numune Quercus
Aegilops doğal mordanının %3 konsantrasyonu ile yapılan boyamadan elde edilmiştir.
Yıkama sonrası renk değişimi en düşük numune ise Quercus Aegilops doğal mordanının %5 konsantrasyonu ile yapılan boyamadan elde edilmiştir. Yün, Pamuk, Poliakrilonitril,
Poliamid, Asetat ve Poliestere lekelemeler açısından mordanlar arasında belirgin bir farklılık
oluşmamıştır. Işık haslığı sonucu elde edilen renk farkları KAl(SO4)2.12H2O mordanı ile
yapılan boyamada görülmüştür. En düşük renk farkları C6H807 mordanı ile yapılan
boyamalardan elde edilmiştir. Renk verimi en yüksek boyamalar ise Quercus Aegilops doğal
mordanı ile yapılan boyamalardır.
The plant known as olive leaf (Olea europaea L.) contains tannin, resin, essential oil and organic acids. In this study, dyeing properties of wool and silk fabrics of animal origin were investigated by using the dye extract of Olea europaea L. The source of the study was 100% wool fiber, Bayburt Ehram woven in plain weave, and Hatay silk fabric woven in plain weave, 100% silk fiber. Before dyeing, wool and silk fabrics were pre-mordanted. Olive tree leaves grown in many regions of Turkey, acorns as mordant, citric acid and potassium aluminum sulfate mordants were used as natural dyestuffs. Three different mordant materials were used as citric acid (C6H807), P.Aluminium sulfate (KAl(SO4)2.12H2O) and acorn (Quercus Aegilops) as plant tannins. Five different concentrations were applied for each mordant substance. After the mordanted samples were dyed separately with natural olive leaf extract dyestuff, their color yields were obtained using Realcolor software in Konika/Minolta (3600d) reflection spectroscopy. The K/S value calculated according to the Kubelka Munk equation was interpreted and the CIELab (L*,a*,b*,C* and h°) coordinates were determined. Satisfactory color tones were obtained as a finish of coloring. Also, the washing and gleam fastnesses of the samples were determined. Bayburt Ehramı's Z. Leaf and C6H807 mordant are used for lighter and more matte green-blue tones, KAl(SO4)2.12H2O is lighter and more vibrant green-yellow tones, Quercus Aegilops natural purple is darker and more matte red blue tones were obtained. The biggest color difference in dyeing without mordant was found with Kal(SO4)2.12H2O mordant. Color change after washing was determined as KAl(SO4)2.12H2O mordant, C6H807 mordant and Quercus Aegilops natural mordant, respectively. There was no important difference among them the mordants in terms of staining on Acetate, Cotton, Polyamide, Polyester, Polyacrylonitrile and Wool. The highest color differences obtained as a result of light fastness were seen in dyeings made with Quercus Aegilops natural mordant. The least color difference obtained by staining C6H807 mordant. The dyeings with the highest color performance were obtained from the dyeings with C6H807 mordant. In dyeing of Hatay Silk using Olive Leaf and C6H807 mordant, the colors were lighter and more matte green-yellow tones were obtained. Darker and more vivid green-yellow tones were obtained in the dyeings made using KAl(SO4)2. 12H2O mordant. Quercus Aegilops turns the natural mordant to a darker and more vibrant red-yellow hue. The biggest color difference compared to the dyeing without mordant was obtained from dyeing with the mordant KAl(SO4)2. 12H2O. The highest color change after washing it was obtained by dyeing with 3% concentration of the natural mordant of Quercus Aegilops. The lowest color difference was obtained after washing test with 5% concentration of Quercus Aegilops natural mordant. There was no significant difference between the mordants in terms of staining on Acetate, Cotton, Polyamide, Polyester, Polyacrylonitrile and Wool. Color differences obtained as a result of light fastness was observed as a result of dyeing with the mordant KAl(SO4)2. 12H2O. The lowest color differences obtained by dyeing with C6H807 mordant. The dyeings with the highest color yield are those made with Quercus Aegilops natural mordant.
The plant known as olive leaf (Olea europaea L.) contains tannin, resin, essential oil and organic acids. In this study, dyeing properties of wool and silk fabrics of animal origin were investigated by using the dye extract of Olea europaea L. The source of the study was 100% wool fiber, Bayburt Ehram woven in plain weave, and Hatay silk fabric woven in plain weave, 100% silk fiber. Before dyeing, wool and silk fabrics were pre-mordanted. Olive tree leaves grown in many regions of Turkey, acorns as mordant, citric acid and potassium aluminum sulfate mordants were used as natural dyestuffs. Three different mordant materials were used as citric acid (C6H807), P.Aluminium sulfate (KAl(SO4)2.12H2O) and acorn (Quercus Aegilops) as plant tannins. Five different concentrations were applied for each mordant substance. After the mordanted samples were dyed separately with natural olive leaf extract dyestuff, their color yields were obtained using Realcolor software in Konika/Minolta (3600d) reflection spectroscopy. The K/S value calculated according to the Kubelka Munk equation was interpreted and the CIELab (L*,a*,b*,C* and h°) coordinates were determined. Satisfactory color tones were obtained as a finish of coloring. Also, the washing and gleam fastnesses of the samples were determined. Bayburt Ehramı's Z. Leaf and C6H807 mordant are used for lighter and more matte green-blue tones, KAl(SO4)2.12H2O is lighter and more vibrant green-yellow tones, Quercus Aegilops natural purple is darker and more matte red blue tones were obtained. The biggest color difference in dyeing without mordant was found with Kal(SO4)2.12H2O mordant. Color change after washing was determined as KAl(SO4)2.12H2O mordant, C6H807 mordant and Quercus Aegilops natural mordant, respectively. There was no important difference among them the mordants in terms of staining on Acetate, Cotton, Polyamide, Polyester, Polyacrylonitrile and Wool. The highest color differences obtained as a result of light fastness were seen in dyeings made with Quercus Aegilops natural mordant. The least color difference obtained by staining C6H807 mordant. The dyeings with the highest color performance were obtained from the dyeings with C6H807 mordant. In dyeing of Hatay Silk using Olive Leaf and C6H807 mordant, the colors were lighter and more matte green-yellow tones were obtained. Darker and more vivid green-yellow tones were obtained in the dyeings made using KAl(SO4)2. 12H2O mordant. Quercus Aegilops turns the natural mordant to a darker and more vibrant red-yellow hue. The biggest color difference compared to the dyeing without mordant was obtained from dyeing with the mordant KAl(SO4)2. 12H2O. The highest color change after washing it was obtained by dyeing with 3% concentration of the natural mordant of Quercus Aegilops. The lowest color difference was obtained after washing test with 5% concentration of Quercus Aegilops natural mordant. There was no significant difference between the mordants in terms of staining on Acetate, Cotton, Polyamide, Polyester, Polyacrylonitrile and Wool. Color differences obtained as a result of light fastness was observed as a result of dyeing with the mordant KAl(SO4)2. 12H2O. The lowest color differences obtained by dyeing with C6H807 mordant. The dyeings with the highest color yield are those made with Quercus Aegilops natural mordant.
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Keywords
Zeytin yaprağı, doğal boyama, mordan, renk haslığı, ışık haslığı
Citation
ÖZOMAY M., Massadikova G., \"BAYBURT EHRAM YÜNÜ VE HATAY İPEĞİNİN ZEYTİN YAPRAĞI İLE
RENKLENDİRİLMESİNDE FARKLI MORDANLARIN RENK VERİMİNE ETKİSİ\", 3. International Anatolian Congress on Scientific Researh, Kayseri, Türkiye, 27 Aralık 2022