Publication: Isırgan otu lifiyle elde edilmiş tekstillerde görsellik
Abstract
ISIRGAN OTU LİFİYLE YAPILMIŞ TEKSTİLLERDE GÖRSELLİK Günümüzde yapay lif kullanımı doğal liflere kıyasla daha yaygındır. Bununla birlikte yapay liflerin üretimlerinde kullanılan enerji ve su miktarının yüksek olması, bu liflerin kimyasal süreçler sonucunda elde edilmeleri, doğada uzun süre yok olmamaları ve bazı çeşitlerinin yeterli konforu (hava geçirme, güneş ışığını engelleme, vb.) tesis edememesi nedenleriyle, doğal lif kullanımı tercih edilmektedir. Ancak, doğal liflerin bir birlerinden farklı özellikler içermeleri, yapay liflere göre üretimlerinin daha maliyetli olması ve üretim alanlarının kısıtlı olması, doğal liflerden en verimli ve yaygın olanlarının kullanımının ön plana çıkmasına neden olmuştur. Söz konusu durum, Avrupa ülkeleri başta olmak üzere, lif üretiminin yanı sıra gıda, kozmetik, ilaç, tarım ve yem sanayinde de kullanılan ısırgan otuna ilişkin araştırmalar yapılmasını sağlamıştır. Doğal bir lif kaynağı olan ısırgan otu ve lifi üzerine yapılan bu çalışmada, Isırgan Otu ve Diğer Doğal Lifler, Isırgan Otu Lifi Özgün Yapısı ve Tekstil Sektöründe Kullanımı, Isırgan Lifi ile Yapılmış Deneysel Çalışmalar olarak üç ana bölümden oluşmaktadır. Çalışmanın birinci bölümünde ısırgan otuna genel bir bakış sağlanmış, ısırgan bitkisinin üretim şekli, yetiştirildiği yerler ve kullanım alanları belirtilmiştir. Ayrıca bu bölümde ısırgan bitkisinden ısırgan lifi üretiminin tarihi gelişimi de açıklanmıştır. Diğer liflerin temel özelliklerinden faydalanılarak ısırgan otunun spesifik özellikleri ön plana çıkartılmıştır. Bu bölümde sak ailesi liflerinden olan keten, kenevir ve jut ile pamuk ve ipek liflerinin özellikleri belirtilmiştir. Çalışmanın ikinci bölümünde ise inceleme konumuzun temelini oluşturan ısırgan otu lifinin yapısı, yapım aşamaları ve temel özellikleri açıklanmıştır. Ayrıca bu bölümde ısırgan lifinin doğal ve yapay lifler ile karşılaştırılması sonucunda ortaya çıkan unsurlara da yer verilmiş ve ısırgan lifinin tekstil sektöründe kullanımına ilişkin değerlendirmeler yapılmıştır. Isırgan lifinden yapılmış tekstil ürünlerine ilişkin örnekler sunulmuş, söz konusu ürünlerde ısırgan lifinin temel kullanım nedenleri açıklanmıştır. Ayrıca ısırgan lifinin kullanım alanları genel hatları ile belirtilerek bu alanlara ilişkin örnekler ortaya konmuştur. Çalışmanın üçüncü ve son bölümünde ise ısırgan lifi ile yapılan deneysel dokuma çalışmalarına yer verilmiştir. Çalışmalar uygulama yöntemi, uygulamada kullanılan örgüler, karşılaştırma sonuçları ve uygulamaların görsel analizi bazında ele alınmıştır. Sonuç olarak ısırgan lifinin tekstilde kullanımı ve bu kullanımda ortaya çıkan görselliğe ilişkin değerlendirmeler tasarımcı gözünden yorumlanmıştır.
VISUAL QUALITY IN TEXTILES MADE OUT OF NETTLE FIBER Today the use of artificial fibers is more common when compared to the use of natural fibers. However, on grounds like the amount of energy and water used in the production of artificial fibers being high, these fibers being obtained after chemical processes, not disappearing in nature very long periods of time and like they can not provide sufficient comfort (air permeability,sun protection, etc.); the usage of natural fibers is preferred. On the other hand, each natural fiber comprising different characteristics, their production being relatively more costly and their production areas being more limited than the production of artificial fibers caused the ones that are the most efficient and widespread of the natural fibers to come into promenance. This very point in question has implemented research projects being conducted especially in European countries regarding nettle plant used in food, cosmetics, pharmaceutical, agriculture and animal feed industries as well as the production of fiber. This study on a natural fiber source nettle and its fiber is comprised of three main chapters as Nettle Plant and Other Natural Fibers, Individual Structure of Nettle Fiber and Its Usage in Textile Sector, Experimental Works Done by Nettle Fiber. In the first chapter of study, a general sight on nettle is provided, production styles of nettle plant, the areas of its production and the areas of its usage are represented. Furthermore historical evolution of nettle fiber production out of nettle plant is explained. Specific characteristics of nettle are brought into prominence by making use of primary features of other fibers. In this chapter, the characteristics of flax, hemp, jute, which are the fibers of the bast fiber family, and the characteristics of cotton and silk fibers are specified. In the second chapter of study, the structure of nettle fiber which constitutes our investigation topic, its production stages and primary features are explained. Moreover the factors that arise from comparing nettle fiber to other natural and artificial fibers are indicated and the usage of nettle fiber in textile sector is evaluated. Examples of textiles regarding textile products from nettle fiber are represented, primary reasons for the usage of nettle fiber in these products are explained. In addition, the areas of usage for nettle fiber are indicated within a general perspective as samples regarding on these areas are put forth. In the third and last chapter of study, experimental weaving works with nettle fiber is manifested. These works are approached on the basis of application method, weaving structures of applications, comparison results and the visual analysis of applications. Finally, the usage of nettle fiber in textiles and the evaluations on the visuality emerging out of this usage are interpreted from a designer's perspective.
VISUAL QUALITY IN TEXTILES MADE OUT OF NETTLE FIBER Today the use of artificial fibers is more common when compared to the use of natural fibers. However, on grounds like the amount of energy and water used in the production of artificial fibers being high, these fibers being obtained after chemical processes, not disappearing in nature very long periods of time and like they can not provide sufficient comfort (air permeability,sun protection, etc.); the usage of natural fibers is preferred. On the other hand, each natural fiber comprising different characteristics, their production being relatively more costly and their production areas being more limited than the production of artificial fibers caused the ones that are the most efficient and widespread of the natural fibers to come into promenance. This very point in question has implemented research projects being conducted especially in European countries regarding nettle plant used in food, cosmetics, pharmaceutical, agriculture and animal feed industries as well as the production of fiber. This study on a natural fiber source nettle and its fiber is comprised of three main chapters as Nettle Plant and Other Natural Fibers, Individual Structure of Nettle Fiber and Its Usage in Textile Sector, Experimental Works Done by Nettle Fiber. In the first chapter of study, a general sight on nettle is provided, production styles of nettle plant, the areas of its production and the areas of its usage are represented. Furthermore historical evolution of nettle fiber production out of nettle plant is explained. Specific characteristics of nettle are brought into prominence by making use of primary features of other fibers. In this chapter, the characteristics of flax, hemp, jute, which are the fibers of the bast fiber family, and the characteristics of cotton and silk fibers are specified. In the second chapter of study, the structure of nettle fiber which constitutes our investigation topic, its production stages and primary features are explained. Moreover the factors that arise from comparing nettle fiber to other natural and artificial fibers are indicated and the usage of nettle fiber in textile sector is evaluated. Examples of textiles regarding textile products from nettle fiber are represented, primary reasons for the usage of nettle fiber in these products are explained. In addition, the areas of usage for nettle fiber are indicated within a general perspective as samples regarding on these areas are put forth. In the third and last chapter of study, experimental weaving works with nettle fiber is manifested. These works are approached on the basis of application method, weaving structures of applications, comparison results and the visual analysis of applications. Finally, the usage of nettle fiber in textiles and the evaluations on the visuality emerging out of this usage are interpreted from a designer's perspective.