Publication: Tekstil baskıcılığında teknolojiye bağlı değişen tasarım anlayışı
Abstract
Tekstil baskıcılığı, dokunmuş, örülmüş veya dokunmamış tekstillerin yüzeylerinin dekore edilmesinde kullanılan bir yöntemdir. El kalıp baskı ile başlayan baskı teknikleri, insanlıkla beraber gelişmiş, hız ve görüntü kalitesi bakımından bugün, dijital teknolojilere ulaşmıştır. Endüstri Devrimi’nin itici gücü ile tekstil baskıcılığında teknik gelişirken, tasarım dili de tekniğin olanakları ile değişmiştir. Tekniğin sınırları içinde, sanat ve sosyolojiye bağlı tasarım anlayışı; seri üretim, sanat akımları, sosyo-ekonomik ve kültürel gelişmeler, moda, sürdürülebilirlik, kavramsal sorgulamalar gibi daha karmaşık bir sürece girmiştir. 20. yüzyıl sanat akımları, ortaya çıktıkları dönem ve sonrasındaki tasarımcılar için ilham kaynağı olmuştur. Sosyo-ekonomik ve kültürel alandaki gelişmelere tasarım dünyası da kayıtsız kalamamış, etkisini üretim yöntemleri, malzeme, desen ve renklerde göstermiştir. Tasarımcılar ileri teknolojileri, üretimlerini kolaylaştırmanın yanında kavramsal çalışmalarını aktarmada da bir araç olarak kullanmışlardır. Teknoloji bazen tasarıma hizmet ederken kimi zaman da tasarımın ana öğesi olmuştur. 2000’lerden sonra bilinen ‘tekstil baskı’ anlayışının değiştiği görülmektedir: Bu değişim için tasarımcıların, teknolojiyi reddederek zanaata dayalı işler ürettiklerini ya da eski tekniklerin görsel etkilerini teknoloji ile yakalama çabasında olduklarını söylemek mümkündür. Çalışma kapsamında; tekstil baskıcılığında teknolojiye bağlı gerçekleşen bu değişim, Endüstri Devrimi’nden günümüze kadar seçilen baskı tasarımcıları ve markalar üzerinden açıklanmaya çalışılmıştır. Tekstil baskı tasarımını etkilediği düşünülen sanat hareketleri incelenirken, teknoloji-tasarım ekseninde eserler ve tasarımcıları üzerinde durulmuştur. Güncel tasarımcı ve firmalardan, tekstil baskı tasarımında teknoloji kullanımıyla fark yaratmış tasarımcı ve markalar seçilmiştir. Bu doğrultuda hazırlanan çalışmada, tekstil baskıcılığındaki gelişimi göstermesi açısından, Victoria & Albert, Museé de I’Impression sur étoffes, Metropolitan Museum of Art gibi tarihe tanıklık eden müzelerden temel kaynak olarak yararlanılmıştır.
Textile printing is a technique that is used for decoration on the surfaces of the woven, knitter or nonwowen textiles. Starting with the hand mould printing, printing techniques have improved with the development of humanity and, they reached digital technology in terms of its speed and visual quality. While the technique of textile printing was improving with the help of Industrial Revolution’s pushing force, the design language also changed with the opportunities of the technique. Within the boundaries of this technique, the sense design related to art and sociology entered into more a complicated process such as mass production, art movements, socioeconomic and cultural developments, fashion, sustainability, conceptual questioning. 20th century art movements inspired the designers of the period, along with those after this period. The design world was not indifferent to cultural and socioeconomic improvements, and it showed its effect on production techniques, materials, pattern and colors. The designers used advanced technologies as a tool for transferring their conceptual works, as well as making their production easier. Serving as a tool for the design conception, the technology was also used as the main element of the design from time to time. It is seen that the common understanding of textile printing has changed after 2000s. It is possible to say for this change that the designers produced craft-based works by refusing the technology or they were in a struggle for catching the visual effects of the old techniques with technology. Within the scope of this study, we tried to explain this change in technology based on textile printing through selected print designers and brands since the Industrial Revolution. Examining the art movements that are thought to affect the textile printing design, the works and designers are focused on technology-design axis. The designers and brands that have created a difference with the use of technology in textile printing design have been selected from among the today’s designers and firms. In the study prepared in this direction, the museums which bear witness to history such as Victoria & Albert, Museé de I’Impression sur étoffes, Metropolitan Museum of Art are used as primary sources.
Textile printing is a technique that is used for decoration on the surfaces of the woven, knitter or nonwowen textiles. Starting with the hand mould printing, printing techniques have improved with the development of humanity and, they reached digital technology in terms of its speed and visual quality. While the technique of textile printing was improving with the help of Industrial Revolution’s pushing force, the design language also changed with the opportunities of the technique. Within the boundaries of this technique, the sense design related to art and sociology entered into more a complicated process such as mass production, art movements, socioeconomic and cultural developments, fashion, sustainability, conceptual questioning. 20th century art movements inspired the designers of the period, along with those after this period. The design world was not indifferent to cultural and socioeconomic improvements, and it showed its effect on production techniques, materials, pattern and colors. The designers used advanced technologies as a tool for transferring their conceptual works, as well as making their production easier. Serving as a tool for the design conception, the technology was also used as the main element of the design from time to time. It is seen that the common understanding of textile printing has changed after 2000s. It is possible to say for this change that the designers produced craft-based works by refusing the technology or they were in a struggle for catching the visual effects of the old techniques with technology. Within the scope of this study, we tried to explain this change in technology based on textile printing through selected print designers and brands since the Industrial Revolution. Examining the art movements that are thought to affect the textile printing design, the works and designers are focused on technology-design axis. The designers and brands that have created a difference with the use of technology in textile printing design have been selected from among the today’s designers and firms. In the study prepared in this direction, the museums which bear witness to history such as Victoria & Albert, Museé de I’Impression sur étoffes, Metropolitan Museum of Art are used as primary sources.