Publication: Dokuma kumaşlarda değişkenlere bağlı olarak örgülerin doku etkisi
Abstract
“Dokuma Kumaşlarda Değişkenlere Bağlı Olarak Örgülerin Doku Etkisi” adlı tez çalışmasında, konu ele alınırken öncelikle dokumanın kısa tarihçesine değinilmiştir. Sonrasında dokuma yapısının oluşumunda etkili faktörler olan örgü, desen, armür ve tahar unsurlarına yer verilmiştir. Dördüncü bölümde ise Louis Serrure’nin 1920 yılında Fransa’da basılan “Atlas de 4000 Armures” adlı kitabında yer alan 8 hareketli örgülerden 34 adet örgü seçilerek, pamuk, keten, yün, ipek, katlı pamuk çözgüler ile keten-ipek ve yün-ipek olmak üzere iki melez çözgüde numune dokumalar yapılarak, toplamda yedi farklı değişken kalite grubunda 137 adet ham ve 137 adet yıkanmış örnek dokuma yapılmıştır. Çalışmanın ana kısmını oluşturan dokuma numuneler, görsel ve estetik analizleri ve teknik detayları ile hazırlanan tablolarla sunulmuştur. Numune uygulamalar ham ve yıkamalı olarak kendi içinde irdelenirken, değerlendirme kısmında her bir dokuma grubundan seçilen örnekler üzerinden karşılaştırmalar yapılarak yüzeyde oluşan görsel ve estetik değerler çerçevesinde tespitlerde bulunulmuştur. Uygulamalar yapılırken öncelikle örgünün aynı malzemede yarattığı farklılıklar değişken olarak belirlenmiştir. Devamında ise uygulanan örgülerden seçim yapılarak, tekstil alanında kullanılan doğal malzemelerin örgüler üzerinde etkisi ve en yaygın kullanım alanına sahip olan pamuk iplikte kalınlık faktörü de eklenerek farklı değişken gruplar oluşturulmuştur. Buna ek olarak oluşturulan melez çözgüler ile farklı materyallerin bir arada kullanımı ve örgülerin üzerindeki etkisi değişken grubuna eklenmiştir. Sonuç olarak, yapılan bütün numune dokumalar üzerinden kıyaslamalarla değişkenlere bağlı olarak örgünün etkisi gözlenmiştir.
In the thesis study “Texture Effect of Weaves Depending on the Variables in Textile Fabrics”, the brief history of weaving is mentioned while contextualizing the subject in the beginning. Then, the factors that are quite effective in the formation of weaving structure such as knitting, pattern, armure and weaving draft are reviewed. In the fourth chapter, 137 raw and 137 washed weaving processes were completed by means of selecting 34 knitting from among the 8-move knitting styles as mentioned in “Atlas de 4000 Armures” written by Louis Serrure and published in France in 1920, as well as using sample weaves on cotton, linen, silk, layered cotton warps, along with two hybrid warps “linen-silk” and “wool-silk” in seven quality groups with variables.Woven samples, comprising the main section of the study, are presented in tabular form formed with visual and aesthetical analyses & technical details. While the sample practices are examined as raw and washed in itself, comparisons are made on samples selected from each weaving group in the assessment section in order for making observations within the framework of visual and aesthetical values on the surface.The differences that the knitting causes on the same material are identified as variables as the implementation process is exercised. Then, various variable groups are formed by selecting the weaves from among those applied, as well as including the effect of natural materials used in textile industry on weaves and the thickness factor of cotton yarn which is widely used in the industry. In addition to this, the use of hybrid warps and different materials together, and its effect on weaves are included in the group of variables. In conclusion the effect of weaving is observed depending on comparisons and variables through all the sample weaves.
In the thesis study “Texture Effect of Weaves Depending on the Variables in Textile Fabrics”, the brief history of weaving is mentioned while contextualizing the subject in the beginning. Then, the factors that are quite effective in the formation of weaving structure such as knitting, pattern, armure and weaving draft are reviewed. In the fourth chapter, 137 raw and 137 washed weaving processes were completed by means of selecting 34 knitting from among the 8-move knitting styles as mentioned in “Atlas de 4000 Armures” written by Louis Serrure and published in France in 1920, as well as using sample weaves on cotton, linen, silk, layered cotton warps, along with two hybrid warps “linen-silk” and “wool-silk” in seven quality groups with variables.Woven samples, comprising the main section of the study, are presented in tabular form formed with visual and aesthetical analyses & technical details. While the sample practices are examined as raw and washed in itself, comparisons are made on samples selected from each weaving group in the assessment section in order for making observations within the framework of visual and aesthetical values on the surface.The differences that the knitting causes on the same material are identified as variables as the implementation process is exercised. Then, various variable groups are formed by selecting the weaves from among those applied, as well as including the effect of natural materials used in textile industry on weaves and the thickness factor of cotton yarn which is widely used in the industry. In addition to this, the use of hybrid warps and different materials together, and its effect on weaves are included in the group of variables. In conclusion the effect of weaving is observed depending on comparisons and variables through all the sample weaves.