Publication: Kenevir Dokuma Kumaşa Enzimatik Ön İşlemlerin Etkisi
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Kenevir lifi tarih boyunca tekstil materyallerinde doğal elyaf olarak kullanılmış, zaman içinde önemini kaybetmiştir. Ancak son yıllarda,tekstilde biyobozunurluğun ve sürdürülebilirliğin önem kazanması ile alternatif doğal liflerin önemi de oldukça artmıştır. Kenevir bitkisininkontrollü ekiminin serbest bırakılması ile bu lifin tekstilde kullanım olanakları yeniden araştırılmaya başlanmıştır. Bu çalışmada, kenevirdokuma kumaşın enzimlerle ön işlem olanakları araştırılmıştır. NaOH, H2O2 ve α-amilaz, pektinaz, lakkaz enzimleri uygulanarak üçfarklı yönteme göre ön terbiye sonrası kumaş performans özellikleri karşılaştırılmıştır. Yöntem 1’de amilaz ile haşılı sökülen kumaş, NaOHile hidrofilleştirilip ardından H2O2 ile ağartılmıştır. Yöntem 2’de haşılı sökülen kumaş, pektinazla hidrofilleştirilip ardından H2O2 ile ağartılmıştır.Yöntem 3’de kumaş, Yöntem 2’ye göre hidrofilleştirilip ardından lakkazla işleme tabi tutulmuştur. Kumaşların hidrofiliteleri, renkkoordinatları, sarılık indeksleri, mukavemetleri, uzamaları ve buruşmazlık açıları değerlendirilmiştir. En iyi hidrofilite (1,46 s) Yöntem 2sonrası elde edilmiştir. Enzimatik işlemler sonrası, renklendirme öncesi uygun kumaş zemin renginin elde edilebilmesi için optimizasyongerekliliği ortaya çıkmıştır. İşlemler kumaşların kopma mukavemetinde ve uzamasında önemli bir değişim meydana getirmemiştir. Yöntem1’e göre işlem gören kumaşların en yüksek buruşmazlık açısına (78°) sahip olduğu görülmüştür. Sonuç olarak kenevir elyafın yakın gelecekteöneminin tekrar artacağı ve endüstriyel tekstil uygulamalarında kullanım potansiyelinin olduğu söylenebilir.
Hemp fibre was used as a natural fiber for textiles in ancient times and lost its importance over time. In recent years, due to the importance of biodegrability and sustainability, the importance of alternative natural fibers has also increased. The use of hemp as a textile fiber has been re-investigated with the release of controlled cultivation of cannabis plants. In this work, treatment possibilities of hemp woven fabrics with enzymes were investigated. Performance of treated fabrics by three different methods with NaOH, H2O2 and α-amylase, pectinase, laccase enzymes was compared. In Method 1, desized fabric with amylase was scoured with NaOH and than bleached with H2O2. In Method 2, desized fabric was scoured with pectinase and bleached with H2O2. In Method 3, scoured fabric by Method 2 was treated with laccase. Hydrophility, colour coordinates, yellowness index, tensile strength, elongation and wrinkle recovery of all woven were evaluated. The highest hydrophility (1,46 s) was obtained by Method 2. The optimization of the process was necessary for coloration in light colours. Treatments did not cause a significant change in strength and elongation of fabrics. The highest recovery angle (78°) was obtained by Method 1. Finally, hemp has potential to use for industrial applications.
Hemp fibre was used as a natural fiber for textiles in ancient times and lost its importance over time. In recent years, due to the importance of biodegrability and sustainability, the importance of alternative natural fibers has also increased. The use of hemp as a textile fiber has been re-investigated with the release of controlled cultivation of cannabis plants. In this work, treatment possibilities of hemp woven fabrics with enzymes were investigated. Performance of treated fabrics by three different methods with NaOH, H2O2 and α-amylase, pectinase, laccase enzymes was compared. In Method 1, desized fabric with amylase was scoured with NaOH and than bleached with H2O2. In Method 2, desized fabric was scoured with pectinase and bleached with H2O2. In Method 3, scoured fabric by Method 2 was treated with laccase. Hydrophility, colour coordinates, yellowness index, tensile strength, elongation and wrinkle recovery of all woven were evaluated. The highest hydrophility (1,46 s) was obtained by Method 2. The optimization of the process was necessary for coloration in light colours. Treatments did not cause a significant change in strength and elongation of fabrics. The highest recovery angle (78°) was obtained by Method 1. Finally, hemp has potential to use for industrial applications.