Publication: Tasarım yöntemleri açısından çözgülü örme
Abstract
Araştırmanın konusu çözgülü örme kumaş üretim yönteminin tekstil tasarımı gözüyle incelenmesi, tasarımda kullanılan öğelerin ve yöntemlerin belirlenmesi, bu üretim sisteminin tasarımcıya sunduğu olanakların araştırılmasıdır. Konu üç ana bölümde ele alınmıştır. Birinci bölümde örme konusunda genel bilgi verilerek daha sonraki konular için altyapı oluşturulmuştur. Bu bölümde örmenin tanımı yapılmış, örmenin tarihsel gelişimi aktarılmıştır. Örme teknolojileri ve çözgülü örme makinelerinin çalışma prensipleri açıklanmıştır. İkinci bölümde çözgülü örmenin iki ana üretim yöntemi olan trikot çözgülü örme ve raşel çözgülü örme teknikleri incelenmiştir. Bu bölümde en basit örgü yapılarından, en karmaşık kumaş yapılarına doğru bir sıralama izlenmiştir. Farklı kumaş yapıları, bu kumaşların uygulanabileceği makinelerle beraber anlatılmıştır. Konunun anlatımında bütünlük sağlanması amacıyla kronolojik olarak makinelerin gelişim sırası izlenmiş, makinelerin tasarımcı için gerekli görülen detayları açıklandıktan sonra bu makinelerde elde edilen kumaş yapıları aktarılmıştır. Üçüncü bölümde tasarım ve endüstriyel tasarım ürünü olarak tekstil tasarımı kavramları üzerinde durulmuştur. Tekstil tasarımında uygulanmakta olan temel prensipler aktarılmıştır. Çözgülü örme yönteminde, temel tasarım öğelerinin karşılıkları tespit edilmiş, estetik ifade biçimleri değerlendirilmiştir. Tez çalışmasının ana konusu olan çözgülü örmede tasarım yöntemleri, iki ana başlık altında detaylı olarak incelenmiştir. Tasarım yöntemlerinde uygulanan işlem alternatiflerinin anlatımı, çeşitli ürün uygulamalarıyla desteklenmiştir. Günümüzde çözgülü örme kumaş tasarımları bilgisayar ortamında hazırlanmaktadır. Üçüncü bölüm dahilinde bilgisayar yazılımlarının çözgülü örme kumaş tasarımındaki kullanımına da yer verilmiştir. Trikot, multibar ve raşel makinelerine uygun tasarımlarının bilgisayar ortamında hazırlanması resimlerle aktarılmıştır. Tasarımcıların kumaş yapıları hakkında fikir yürütmesini kolaylaştırmak maksadıyla çözgülü örme tekniği, kullanım alanları doğrultusunda, diğer kumaş üretim yöntemleriyle karşılaştırılmıştır. Çözgülü örme tekniğini diğer kumaş üretim yöntemlerinden farklı kılan üretim özelliklerine, estetik ve fiziksel özelliklere dikkat çekilmiştir. Diğer kumaş üretim yöntemlerine oranla, çözgülü örmeciliğin tasarımcıya yaratma etkinliği açısından sunduğu olanaklar aktarılmıştır. Çözgülü örmede tasarım konusunda gerçekleştirilen ilk akademik çalışma olması sebebiyle, konular bütünsel bir yaklaşımla incelenmiştir. Tez kapsamında ele alınan her bir bölüm ayrı bir araştırma konusu olabilecek zenginliktedir. Konunun dağılmaması ve mühendislik ağırlıklı olmaması için, tekstil tasarımcı açısından konunun anlaşılmasında gerekli görülen teknik bilgilere yer verilmiş, detaylı teknik anlatımlardan kaçınılmıştır. Her başlık altında bir kısmı özgün olmak üzere çeşitli resimler ve çizimler kullanılmıştır. Tez kapsamında toplam 192 şekil ve 151 resim yer almaktadır.
The subject of study is to examine wrap knit fabric production methods in view of textile design, to determine items and methods used in design, and to research opportunities of production system to designer. Subject is discussed in three main topics. In first chapter, general information is given about knitting and background was created for further topics. The definition of knitting was made and historical development of knitting was discussed. Knitting technologies and operation principles of wrap knitting machines were described. In the second chapter, the techniques of tricot wrap knitting and raschel warp knitting which are two main production methods of wrap knitting were discussed. In this chapter, an order was followed from simplest knitting structures to most complicated fabric structures. Different fabric structures were described with machines to which such fabrics can be applied. The development order of machines were chronically followed in order to provide integrity in description of subject; after describing details of machines required for designer, fabric structures obtained in such machines were described. In third chapter, the concepts of textile design as design and industrial design product were emphasized. Basic principles to be applied in textile design were described. In wrap knitting methods, counterparts of basic design items were determined, and aesthetic expression forms were assessed. Design methods in wrap knitting which is main subject of thesis study were assessed in detail in two main headings. The description of operation alternatives applied in design methods were supported by various product applications. Today, wrap knitting fabric designs were created in computer environment. Third chapter includes the use of computer software in design of wrap knitting fabric design. The preparation of design appropriate for tricot, multibar and Raschel machines in computer environment was described with pictures. Wrap knit technique was compared with other fabric production methods in line with their intended use in order to ease to express opinion about fabric structures of designers. It is emphasized on production features that makes wrap knitting technique different from other fabric production methods and their aesthetic and physical features. The opportunities of wrap knitting offered to designer in terms of creation efficiency in comparison to other fabric production methods were described. Topics were examined with integral approach by reason of first academic study held in design of wrap knitting design. Each chapter which was discussed in thesis scope is rich to be different research subject. Technical information was discussed required for understanding of subject in terms of textile designer in order not to ramble and not to be engineering intensive and detailed technical expressions were avoided. Various pictures and drawings of which some part is specific are used under each heading. There are 192 figures and 151 pictures in total within scope of thesis.
The subject of study is to examine wrap knit fabric production methods in view of textile design, to determine items and methods used in design, and to research opportunities of production system to designer. Subject is discussed in three main topics. In first chapter, general information is given about knitting and background was created for further topics. The definition of knitting was made and historical development of knitting was discussed. Knitting technologies and operation principles of wrap knitting machines were described. In the second chapter, the techniques of tricot wrap knitting and raschel warp knitting which are two main production methods of wrap knitting were discussed. In this chapter, an order was followed from simplest knitting structures to most complicated fabric structures. Different fabric structures were described with machines to which such fabrics can be applied. The development order of machines were chronically followed in order to provide integrity in description of subject; after describing details of machines required for designer, fabric structures obtained in such machines were described. In third chapter, the concepts of textile design as design and industrial design product were emphasized. Basic principles to be applied in textile design were described. In wrap knitting methods, counterparts of basic design items were determined, and aesthetic expression forms were assessed. Design methods in wrap knitting which is main subject of thesis study were assessed in detail in two main headings. The description of operation alternatives applied in design methods were supported by various product applications. Today, wrap knitting fabric designs were created in computer environment. Third chapter includes the use of computer software in design of wrap knitting fabric design. The preparation of design appropriate for tricot, multibar and Raschel machines in computer environment was described with pictures. Wrap knit technique was compared with other fabric production methods in line with their intended use in order to ease to express opinion about fabric structures of designers. It is emphasized on production features that makes wrap knitting technique different from other fabric production methods and their aesthetic and physical features. The opportunities of wrap knitting offered to designer in terms of creation efficiency in comparison to other fabric production methods were described. Topics were examined with integral approach by reason of first academic study held in design of wrap knitting design. Each chapter which was discussed in thesis scope is rich to be different research subject. Technical information was discussed required for understanding of subject in terms of textile designer in order not to ramble and not to be engineering intensive and detailed technical expressions were avoided. Various pictures and drawings of which some part is specific are used under each heading. There are 192 figures and 151 pictures in total within scope of thesis.