Publication: Moda reklamında fotoğrafın kullanımı
Abstract
Bu çalışmada son yüzyılın kalabalıklaşma süreci ve buna bağlı olarak değişen yaşam, üretim ve tüketim alışkanlıkları ele alınmıştır. Yaşadığımız çağ, Orta Çağ’dan bugüne alışılagelmiş güzellik ve estetik kavramlarının değişime uğratılıp, her gün farklı bir şekilde öğretildiği, bütün duyguların metalaştırıldığı, tüm değerlerin bir pazarlama ürünü olarak sunulup tüketime zorlandığı bir çağ olarak karşımıza çıkıyor. 1900’lü yıllarda yaklaşık 1,5 milyar olan dünya nüfusu, son yüzyılda 4 misli arttı, 6 milyara ulaştı. Oysa yirminci yüzyıl kayda geçen insanlık tarihinin sadece %3’ü. Bu kalabalıklaşma doğal olarak sosyal, kültürel ve ekonomik açıdan kendi davranış bozukluğunu da üretti. Halbuki toplumlar için ümit olabilecek “yeni” kavramı aslında bir bakıma ümit hatta fırsat olabilirdi. Tüm teknolojik yenilikler keşke bu tüketim çılgınlığına malzeme edilmeseydi. İşte, bu tekrar var etme ve sunuş denkleminde önce sevdirilen, akabinde gözden düşürülüp öldürülen, hızla yenisi yaratılan tüketim oyunu “moda” denen sihirli sözcük sayesinde oynanmaktadır. Onbinlerce yetersiz moda reklamı ve fotoğrafı arasından 30-40 yıl önce yaratılmış bir kompozisyon her gün değerine değer katıyorsa, o halde popüler kültür bombardımanına karşı sığınacağımız “kaliteli” vahalar hala var demektir. Bizler bu vahaları çoğaltmak durumundayız. “…hiçbir zaman son moda nedir diye merak etmeyiz. Tek kaygımız şıklıktır.” diyor Luciano Barbera. Bu çalışma Grafik Tasarım ve Fotoğrafın Tarihçesini inceleyerek başladı. Sonra kitlelerin tasarruf toplumundan tüketim toplumuna dönüştürülmesi ele alındı. Moda ve marka kavramlarına bakış ile devam eden yazı, 20. Yüzyılın tüm olumsuzluklarına karşı bir duruş olarak usta moda reklamı yaratıcıları ve fotoğrafçılarınının ele alınması ile son buldu.
In this paper we discuss the changes that have taken place over the last century, as a result of the increases in population, in the way we live, produce, and consume. During the era we are living in, all the notions of beauty and aesthetics that we have known since the Middle Ages have changed. Day by day in this current time, all our feelings are becoming materialistic, and all our values are being turned into marketing products for consumption. The World population, which was 1.5 billion in the early 1900’s, has quadrupled during the last century to over 6 billion. On the other hand, the Twentieth Century represents only 3% of recorded world history. Obviously, this overpopulation has created its own distortions in social, cultural, and economic behaviour. On the other hand, the concept of “new” could have been a real opportunity for society, if technical innovations had not been sacrificed for this madness of consumption. So as we see, in this game of creation and presentation, things are first appreciated, then fall from favour, and are killed off, only to be quickly recreated again. And this game is made possible, all owing to the magic word “fashion”. If a composition created 30 to 40 years ago is still appreciated today, and is still able to add value to a brand, despite the other 10,000 incompetent fashion adverts and photographs, this means that there are still some oases of quality that we can take refuge in. We have to increase the number of these oases. As Luciano Barbera observed, “We are never interested in what the latest fashion is; our only concern is to be chic.” This paper starts with an analysis of Graphic Design and the History of Photography. Next it studies the transformation of societies with a savings culture into consuming societies. The paper continues with an examination of fashion and brand concepts. It concludes with an evaluation of the leading fashion advertisers and photographers who held out against all the negativity of the Twentieth Century.
In this paper we discuss the changes that have taken place over the last century, as a result of the increases in population, in the way we live, produce, and consume. During the era we are living in, all the notions of beauty and aesthetics that we have known since the Middle Ages have changed. Day by day in this current time, all our feelings are becoming materialistic, and all our values are being turned into marketing products for consumption. The World population, which was 1.5 billion in the early 1900’s, has quadrupled during the last century to over 6 billion. On the other hand, the Twentieth Century represents only 3% of recorded world history. Obviously, this overpopulation has created its own distortions in social, cultural, and economic behaviour. On the other hand, the concept of “new” could have been a real opportunity for society, if technical innovations had not been sacrificed for this madness of consumption. So as we see, in this game of creation and presentation, things are first appreciated, then fall from favour, and are killed off, only to be quickly recreated again. And this game is made possible, all owing to the magic word “fashion”. If a composition created 30 to 40 years ago is still appreciated today, and is still able to add value to a brand, despite the other 10,000 incompetent fashion adverts and photographs, this means that there are still some oases of quality that we can take refuge in. We have to increase the number of these oases. As Luciano Barbera observed, “We are never interested in what the latest fashion is; our only concern is to be chic.” This paper starts with an analysis of Graphic Design and the History of Photography. Next it studies the transformation of societies with a savings culture into consuming societies. The paper continues with an examination of fashion and brand concepts. It concludes with an evaluation of the leading fashion advertisers and photographers who held out against all the negativity of the Twentieth Century.