Publication: Seçilmiş örneklerden Bulgaristan ve Türk geleneksel giyisi yapılarının ve kumaşlarının karşılaştırılması
Abstract
Tarihsel açıdan bakıldığında Bulgarların da Türkler gibi Orta Asya’dan geldiği görülmektedir. Orta Asya’dan miras kalan şalvar ve kaftan Bulgarlar ve Türkler için tarihin her döneminde vazgeçilmez giyim unsurları olmuşlardır. Coğrafi açıdan bakıldığında,Balkanlar ve Anadolu benzer iklim özelliklerini göstermektedir bu nedenle benzer hammaddeler kullanıldığı görülmektedir. Yün,keten,ipek ve pamuğun el tezgahlarında dokunduğunu Balkanlar ve Anadolu’da geleneksel giyimde en çok kullanılan malzemeler olduğunu söylemek mümkündür. Bulgarların Hıristiyanlığı kabulü ,özellikle giysiler üzerindeki renk ve desen özelliklerini etkilemiştir.Bulgar kadın giyimi ,arka önlük ve Sukman gibi Anadolu topraklarında pek rastlanmayan iki öğeyi ise Slav kültüründen almış ve yüzyıllarca korumuştur. Bulgaristan’ın Osmanlı egemenliği döneminde coğrafi konum bakımından başkent İstanbul’a yakın olması ,ticari ve sosyal ilişkilerin yoğunluğunu getirmiş ve özellikle Türk erkek giyiminin 500 yıl içerisinde Bulgarlar tarafından tamamen kabul edilip benimsenmesine neden olmuştur.Osmanlı’da devletin giyim yasaları giyim ve dış görünüşle her zaman Bulgarların ve Türklerin birbirinden ayrılmasına yol açsa da yasalarla zorunlu kılınan farklılıkların renk ve aksesuar kullanımından öteye gitmediğini belirtmek gerekir. Genel olarak Bulgar ve Türk giyimine bakıldığında kadın giyiminde gömlek ,içdonu, önlük ,başörtüsü,kuşak,çorap,ceket,yemeni gibi giysi parçalarının kalıp ve malzeme açısından benzer yada tamamen aynı olduğu görülmektedir.Ayrıca kolçak ve göğüslük gibi kadın giyimi ayrıntılarının da ortak kullanıldığı görülmektedir. Anteri,potur,kaftan,benevrek,yemeni,kundura,tülbent,peştamal...vb. isimler her iki dilde de aynı anlamda kullanılmıştır .Bulgaristan’da giyilmiş giysilerde malzeme olarak doğal ve yöresel özellikler korunmuş,genellikle giysiler tek renk, süsleme ve renklendirmeler giysi üzerinde belli bölgelerde yoğunlaşmıştır.Giysi parçaları daha azdır. Anadolu’da giysiler daha renklidir, ipek ve pamuk gibi pazara sunulan malzemeler daha yaygın olarak kullanılmıştır.Giysi parçaları çok fazladır. Araştırma sırasında kumaş,form,kalıp,nakış,süsleme,renk,giyim şekli,isim gibi her türlü benzerlik dikkate alınmıştır. Araştırma sonucunda Anadolu ve Balkanlarda giysilerde ortak yaşamın getirdiği genel benzerliklerin yanı sıra başka bir millet ve dine ait olmanın getirdiği ayrıcalıklar seçilmiş örnek giysiler üzerinde ve ayrıntılarda gözlemlenmiştir.
When a historical review is conducted, it is understood that the Bulgarians, just like Turks have come from Central Asia. Şhalwar and caftan that are heritages of Central Asia have been indispensable pieces of clothing through all historical periods both for Bulgarians and Turks. When a geographical review is made, it is observed that the Balkans and Anatolia display similar climatic condition and that similar raw materials have been used for this reason. It would be appropriate to note that wool, linen, silk and cotton are hand-woven and that they are the materials used most commonly for traditional clothing both in the Balkans and Anatolia. Acceptance of Christianity by Bulgarians has especially effected the colors and designs on clothing. Rear apron and Sukman, namely two components observed in the clothing of Bulgarian women, which are not come across in Anatolia were taken from the Slav culture and preserved for centuries. The consequences of the geographical proximity of Bulgaria to Istanbul, the capital, during the Ottoman rule have been intensive trade and social relations and the fact that the clothing style of Turkish men have been fully accepted and adopted in 500 years. Although laws about clothing led to differentiation of Bulgarians and Turks at all times in terms of clothing and external appearance, it should be noted that the differences were always restricted with colors and accessories. When Bulgarian and Turkish clothing is reviewed in general, it is observed that the pieces of clothing such as shirts, underpants, aprons, head scarves, belts, socks, jackets, head scarves are similar or almost the same in terms of pattern and material. Furthermore, it is also observed that details of women’s clothing such as mittens and breast straps are used as well. Names such as anteri,potur, caftan, benevrek,yemeni,kundura,tülbent,peştamal...etc have been used in the same meaning in both languages. Pieces of clothing used Bulgaria generally have preserved their natural and regional characteristics. They are generally single colored; decorations and use of color are regional. The pieces of clothing are less. Clothes are more colorful in Anatolia, materials presented to the market such as silk and cotton is used more commonly. The pieces of clothes are much more. All kinds of similarities in terms of fabric, form, pattern, embroidery, decorations, color, type of clothing, name etc were taken into consideration during the research. Besides general similarities in clothing in Anatolia and the Balkans caused by living together, differences caused by being members of different nations and religions were also observed in the research.
When a historical review is conducted, it is understood that the Bulgarians, just like Turks have come from Central Asia. Şhalwar and caftan that are heritages of Central Asia have been indispensable pieces of clothing through all historical periods both for Bulgarians and Turks. When a geographical review is made, it is observed that the Balkans and Anatolia display similar climatic condition and that similar raw materials have been used for this reason. It would be appropriate to note that wool, linen, silk and cotton are hand-woven and that they are the materials used most commonly for traditional clothing both in the Balkans and Anatolia. Acceptance of Christianity by Bulgarians has especially effected the colors and designs on clothing. Rear apron and Sukman, namely two components observed in the clothing of Bulgarian women, which are not come across in Anatolia were taken from the Slav culture and preserved for centuries. The consequences of the geographical proximity of Bulgaria to Istanbul, the capital, during the Ottoman rule have been intensive trade and social relations and the fact that the clothing style of Turkish men have been fully accepted and adopted in 500 years. Although laws about clothing led to differentiation of Bulgarians and Turks at all times in terms of clothing and external appearance, it should be noted that the differences were always restricted with colors and accessories. When Bulgarian and Turkish clothing is reviewed in general, it is observed that the pieces of clothing such as shirts, underpants, aprons, head scarves, belts, socks, jackets, head scarves are similar or almost the same in terms of pattern and material. Furthermore, it is also observed that details of women’s clothing such as mittens and breast straps are used as well. Names such as anteri,potur, caftan, benevrek,yemeni,kundura,tülbent,peştamal...etc have been used in the same meaning in both languages. Pieces of clothing used Bulgaria generally have preserved their natural and regional characteristics. They are generally single colored; decorations and use of color are regional. The pieces of clothing are less. Clothes are more colorful in Anatolia, materials presented to the market such as silk and cotton is used more commonly. The pieces of clothes are much more. All kinds of similarities in terms of fabric, form, pattern, embroidery, decorations, color, type of clothing, name etc were taken into consideration during the research. Besides general similarities in clothing in Anatolia and the Balkans caused by living together, differences caused by being members of different nations and religions were also observed in the research.