Publication: Tekstil sanatlarda tasarım analizleri
Abstract
Modern Toplum üzerinden geriye dönük bir bakış açısı ile Türk toplumsal tarihinin belirlenen dönemini giyim dili üzerinden, semiyotik (Göstergebilimsel) bir analiz yöntemi kullanarak gündeme taşıma hedeflenmiştir. Bu noktadan hareketle, ikinci dünya savaşı sonrası özellikle Avrupa’da beliren toplumsal hareketler ile Türkiye’deki durum tıpkı batıdaki gibi birey üzerinden altkültürün temsili haline gelmiş, protest tavırların göstergesine dönüşmüştür. Araştırmanın birinci ve ikinci bölümlerinde sosyolojik bağlamda toplumlardaki sınıf farklılıklarına değinerek, kitlelerin oluşturduğu hiyerarşiye odaklanılmıştır. Diğer taraftan moda kavramı içerisinde cinsiyet, kimlik ve statü ilişkisi üzerinden bireyin tekstil nesnesi (giysi) olarak simgesel anlatım dili ele alınmış, toplumdaki sembolik rolün tanımı irdelenmiştir. Savaş sonrası (ikinci Dünya Savaşı) bilimsel gelişmelerle beraber toplum bilincinin oluşturduğu kitlesel başkaldırı pratikleri farklı moda kuramlarını ortaya çıkarmış, bu durum moda kavramı-toplumsal sınıf ilişkisi üzerinden bir araştırma yapmak gereğini doğurmuştur. Üçüncü bölüm bu çerçevede geliştirilmiştir. Dördüncü bölümde belirlenen tarihsel çerçeve içerisinde, tespit edilen görsel kaynakçalar üzerinden Türk Sinemasının gelişimindeki toplumsal gerçekçi yansımalar ile tespit edilen Türk rock ve pop müziğinin giyim temsiller, göstergebilimsel metodoji ile incelenerek, toplumsal ilerleyişin ve değişimin etkileri üzerine odak oluşturulmuştur. Sonuç itibari ile altkültür başkaldırılarının giyim-kuşam üzerinden radikal duruşu, tekstil nesnesinin (giysi) her zamanki bilindik işlevini değiştirerek, ona toplum içerisinde ciddi bir rol biçmiştir. Fakat diğer taraftan her ne olursa olsun biçilen bu rol, moda endüstrisinin satış odaklı bir parçası olmaktan kendini kurtaramamıştır.
A retrospective perspective on Modern Society, it is aimed to bring the determined period of Turkish social history to the agenda through the language of clothing, using a semiotic analysis method. Starting from this point, with the social movements that emerged especially in Europe after the Second World War, the situation in Turkey has become the representation of subculture through the individual, just like in the West, and turned into an indicator of protest attitudes. The first and second parts of the research focused on the hierarchy formed by the masses, touching on the common class differences in societies in a sociological context. On the other hand, within the concept of fashion, the symbolic expression language of the individual as a textile object (clothes) was discussed through the relationship between gender, identity and status, and the definition of the symbolic role in society was examined. Post-war (Second World War) scientific developments and mass uprising practices created by social consciousness have revealed different fashion theories, and this has necessitated a research on the concept of fashion-social class relationship, and the third chapter has been developed within this framework. Within the historical framework determined in the fourth chapter, the clothing representations of Turkish rock and pop music, identified through social realistic reflections in the development of Turkish Cinema through the visual bibliographies identified, were examined with semiotic methodology, focusing on the effects of social progress and change. As a result, the radical stance of subcultural rebellions on clothing has changed the usual function of the textile object (clothes) and assigned it a serious role in society. But on the other hand, no matter what, this role has not been able to save itself from being a sales-oriented part of the fashion industry.
A retrospective perspective on Modern Society, it is aimed to bring the determined period of Turkish social history to the agenda through the language of clothing, using a semiotic analysis method. Starting from this point, with the social movements that emerged especially in Europe after the Second World War, the situation in Turkey has become the representation of subculture through the individual, just like in the West, and turned into an indicator of protest attitudes. The first and second parts of the research focused on the hierarchy formed by the masses, touching on the common class differences in societies in a sociological context. On the other hand, within the concept of fashion, the symbolic expression language of the individual as a textile object (clothes) was discussed through the relationship between gender, identity and status, and the definition of the symbolic role in society was examined. Post-war (Second World War) scientific developments and mass uprising practices created by social consciousness have revealed different fashion theories, and this has necessitated a research on the concept of fashion-social class relationship, and the third chapter has been developed within this framework. Within the historical framework determined in the fourth chapter, the clothing representations of Turkish rock and pop music, identified through social realistic reflections in the development of Turkish Cinema through the visual bibliographies identified, were examined with semiotic methodology, focusing on the effects of social progress and change. As a result, the radical stance of subcultural rebellions on clothing has changed the usual function of the textile object (clothes) and assigned it a serious role in society. But on the other hand, no matter what, this role has not been able to save itself from being a sales-oriented part of the fashion industry.