Publication: Örme kumaşlarda boncuklanma nedenlerinin incelenmesi
Abstract
Boncuklanma problemi, tekstilde hem üreticiyi hem de tüketiciyi rahatsız eden ve kumaş kalitesini olumsuz etkileyen en önemli problemlerden biridir. Boncuklanmayı etkileyen faktörlerle birlikte kullanılan test cihaz ve yöntemleri de kumaşların boncuklanma performanslarının değerlendirilmesi açısından oldukça önemlidir. Çalışmanın birinci kısmında sektörde kullanımı oldukça yaygın olan çeşitli yapılarda örme kumaşlar (özellikle farklı lif ve iplik çeşitleri dikkate alınarak) temini sağlanmıştır. Bu örme kumaşları oluşturan ipliklerinin büküm, mukavemet, tüylülük, sürtünme gibi temel özellikleri laboratuar test cihazlarıyla tespit edilmiştir. Daha sonra örme kumaşların Martindale Boncuklanma Test cihazıyla boncuklanma davranışları incelenmiştir. Lif karışım oranı, iplik bükümü, iplik tipi, kumaş konstrüksiyonu, elastomerik elyaf ve bitim işlemleri incelenmiştir. Çalışmanın ikinci kısmında on farklı örme kumaştan t-shirt dikilerek giyim denemeleri yapılmış ve test cihazından elde edilen sonuçlar ile giyim denemeleri karşılaştırılmıştır. Çalışmanın sonunda, örme kumaşlarda boncuklanmaya etki eden faktörler incelenip en uygun örme kumaş yapıları tavsiye edilmiştir.
Pilling problem is one of the major problems which affects the quality of the fabric in a negative way and which disturbs both the consumer and the producer. In addition to the factors affecting pilling, test equipments and methods used are quite important from the angle of the analysis of the performance of pilling of fabrics. In the first part of the study, knitted fabric forms (various forms of fibres and threads are concerned) which are commonly used in the sector have been obtained. The main properties of yarns, which produced the knitted fabrics, such as twist, tenacity, hairiness and friction have been determined with the help of laboratory test equipments. Later, the pilling behaviours of the knitted fabrics were analysed with the Martindale Pilling Test equipment. Fibre blend proportion, yarn twist, yarn type, fabric construction, elastomeric fibres and finished processes were analysed. In the second part of the study, ten T-shirts were produced using ten different types of knitted fabrics and dressing trials were carried out and the results were obtained from the test equipment and later the dressing trials were compared. The factors affecting pilling in knitted fabrics were analysed and the most appropriate types of knitted fabric types were suggested.
Pilling problem is one of the major problems which affects the quality of the fabric in a negative way and which disturbs both the consumer and the producer. In addition to the factors affecting pilling, test equipments and methods used are quite important from the angle of the analysis of the performance of pilling of fabrics. In the first part of the study, knitted fabric forms (various forms of fibres and threads are concerned) which are commonly used in the sector have been obtained. The main properties of yarns, which produced the knitted fabrics, such as twist, tenacity, hairiness and friction have been determined with the help of laboratory test equipments. Later, the pilling behaviours of the knitted fabrics were analysed with the Martindale Pilling Test equipment. Fibre blend proportion, yarn twist, yarn type, fabric construction, elastomeric fibres and finished processes were analysed. In the second part of the study, ten T-shirts were produced using ten different types of knitted fabrics and dressing trials were carried out and the results were obtained from the test equipment and later the dressing trials were compared. The factors affecting pilling in knitted fabrics were analysed and the most appropriate types of knitted fabric types were suggested.