Publication: Poliester/ yün iplik karışımlarının boyanması
Abstract
POLİESTER/ YÜN İPLİK KARIŞIMLARININ BOYANMASI Sentetik lifler içersinde en çok kullanılan poliester elyafı ve hayvansal lifler içersinde de en çok kullanılan yün elyafı günümüzde hazır giyim sektöründe tek başına veya karışım halinde oldukça önemlidir. Bu iki elyafın karışımı ile oluşturulan kumaşlarda, birinin karşılayamadığı özellikleri diğer elyaf giderirken diğerinin zayıf kaldığı alanda da öbür elyaf devreye girerek bu açığı kapatmaktadır. Poliester ve yün kimyasal yapı olarak oldukça farklı özelliklere sahiptirler. Poliester zor boyanan bir elyaf cinsi olmasına karşılık yün tam aksine çoğu tekstil boyarmaddesiyle boyanabilir. Bundan dolayı bu iki elyaf karışımlarının boyanması diğer karışımlardan daha zordur. Bunun en önemli nedeni poliester liflerinin dispers boyarmaddelerle keriyer kullanmaksızın boyanma sıcaklığının 120 ºC ve üstünde olmasıdır. Bu sıcaklıkta yün lifleri zarar gördüğü için (keçeleştiği için) poliester/ yün karışımlarının bu sıcaklıkta boyanması tercih edilmez. Bunun için poliester/ yün karışımları mümkün olduğunca düşük sıcaklıkta boyanmalıdır. Poliester/ yün karışımlarının düşük sıcaklıkta boyanmasında poliesterin dispers boyarmaddeyi absorplaması zorlaşacağından keriyer kullanmak gerekir. %55/ 45 poliester/ yün karışımları ticari olarak oldukça fazla tercih edildikleri için bu tezde bu karışım oranlarındaki iplikler kullanılmıştır. Yapılan çalışmalarda, sırasıyla 55/ 45 oranında karışım iplikler çorap örme makinasında örülmüş daha sonra da 5g’lık numunelerin Forosyn boyarmaddelerle boyanması gerçekleştirilmiştir. Boyamalar HT ve MW (mikrodalga) yöntemleri kullanılarak yapılmıştır. Boyanmış numunelerin renk ölçümleri reflektans spektrofotometresiyle yapılmış ve yapılan boyamalar birbiriyle karşılaştırılmıştır. Sunulan tez çalışması beş bölümden oluşmaktadır. Birinci bölümde, çalışmanın amacı açıklanmaktadır. İkinci bölümde, polimerin tarihinden kısaca bahsedilerek, poliesterin ve yünün fiziksel ve kimyasal özellikleri, bu elyafların tek tek, karışımlarının boyanması ve boyanma yöntemleri hakkında verilmiştir. Üçüncü bölümde, uygulamalarda kullanılan yöntemler, maddeler, araçlar ile standartlar verilmektedir. Dördüncü bölümde, işlem görmüş kumaşlara ait spektrofotometrik ölçüm sonuçları ile bu sonuçlar yardımıyla hesaplanan CIELab ve tristimulus değerleri verilmiştir. Aynı zamanda renk haslığı testlerinden elde edilen veriler çizelgeler halinde sunulmaktadır. Beşinci bölümde ise tez çalışması sonucunda elde edilen veriler ortaya konmuş, tartışılmış ve değerlendirilmiştir.
THE DYEING OF POLYESTER/ WOOL YARN BLENDS The fiber of polyester among synthetic fibers and wool fiber in animal fibers are important fiber types that are commonly used as seperate or in blends in ready wear sector today. In the clothes composed by the blending of these two fibers, while one of them compensates for the qualities that can not be met by the other, the other fiber meets the deficit by becoming a part of the activity in the place where the first one remains inadequate. Polyester and wool have chemically quite different properties. Though polyester is a fiber type that is hardly dyed, wool just opposite of it, can be dyed with many textile dyestuffs. For this reason, the dying of these two fibers is more difficult than the other blends. The most significant reason for this is that the dyeing temperature of polyester with disperse dyes is 120 ºC and over without using carrier. At this temperature since the wool fibers are damaged (felt), dyeing of polyester/ wool blends at this temperature is not preferred. Therefore polyester/ wool blends should be dyed at low temperatures as much as possible. However, at this time as the dyeing rate of polyester will decrease, In the dyeing of polyester/ wool blends at low temperatures it is required to use carrier as it will be difficult for polyester to absorb disperse dyestuff. Because the %55/ 45 polyester/ wool blends are commercially preferred very much, in this thesis the fibers at these blending rates have been used. In the studies made, the blending fibers respectively at 55/ 45 rates have been knitted in stockings knitting machine and then the dyeing of the 5 grams of samples with Forosyn dyestuffs have been carried out. The dyeings have been made through using HT and MW (microwave) methods. The color measurements of the dyed samples have been determined with the help of reflectance spectrophometer and the dyeings made have been compared with each other. Later the colour yields, fastness qualities of the dyed materials, the tensile strength qualities of the dyed and undyed materials have been compared. The present thesis study is composed of five chapters. In the first chapter, the objective of the study is explained. In the second chapter, by briefly mentioning the history of polymer, general information about the physical and chemical characteristics of polyester and wool, the dyeing of these fibers seperately and their blendings, and dying methods have been given. In the third chapter, the methods, agents, tools and standards used in the applications are given. In the fourth chapter, the results of spectrophotometric mesurement belonging to the processed clothes and CIELab and tristimulus values assessed with the help of these results have been given. Also the data obtained from the color fastness tests are presented in the form of charts. In the fifth chapter, the data obtained at the end of the thesis study have been introduced, discussed and evaluated.
THE DYEING OF POLYESTER/ WOOL YARN BLENDS The fiber of polyester among synthetic fibers and wool fiber in animal fibers are important fiber types that are commonly used as seperate or in blends in ready wear sector today. In the clothes composed by the blending of these two fibers, while one of them compensates for the qualities that can not be met by the other, the other fiber meets the deficit by becoming a part of the activity in the place where the first one remains inadequate. Polyester and wool have chemically quite different properties. Though polyester is a fiber type that is hardly dyed, wool just opposite of it, can be dyed with many textile dyestuffs. For this reason, the dying of these two fibers is more difficult than the other blends. The most significant reason for this is that the dyeing temperature of polyester with disperse dyes is 120 ºC and over without using carrier. At this temperature since the wool fibers are damaged (felt), dyeing of polyester/ wool blends at this temperature is not preferred. Therefore polyester/ wool blends should be dyed at low temperatures as much as possible. However, at this time as the dyeing rate of polyester will decrease, In the dyeing of polyester/ wool blends at low temperatures it is required to use carrier as it will be difficult for polyester to absorb disperse dyestuff. Because the %55/ 45 polyester/ wool blends are commercially preferred very much, in this thesis the fibers at these blending rates have been used. In the studies made, the blending fibers respectively at 55/ 45 rates have been knitted in stockings knitting machine and then the dyeing of the 5 grams of samples with Forosyn dyestuffs have been carried out. The dyeings have been made through using HT and MW (microwave) methods. The color measurements of the dyed samples have been determined with the help of reflectance spectrophometer and the dyeings made have been compared with each other. Later the colour yields, fastness qualities of the dyed materials, the tensile strength qualities of the dyed and undyed materials have been compared. The present thesis study is composed of five chapters. In the first chapter, the objective of the study is explained. In the second chapter, by briefly mentioning the history of polymer, general information about the physical and chemical characteristics of polyester and wool, the dyeing of these fibers seperately and their blendings, and dying methods have been given. In the third chapter, the methods, agents, tools and standards used in the applications are given. In the fourth chapter, the results of spectrophotometric mesurement belonging to the processed clothes and CIELab and tristimulus values assessed with the help of these results have been given. Also the data obtained from the color fastness tests are presented in the form of charts. In the fifth chapter, the data obtained at the end of the thesis study have been introduced, discussed and evaluated.