Publication: Batı Makedonya’ da sırmacılık zanaatı
Abstract
ÖZETGiyim, insanların toplum içerisindeki statüsünü, karakterini, zevkini, yaşını,kişisel özelliklerini aynı zamanda bireysel, toplumsal, ulusal ve dini özelliklerini kolaycayansıtabilecekleri bir olgudur. Giyimin tarihine bakacak olursak eski çağlardan bugünebirçok evreler geçirdiği görülmektedir. İnsanlar bulundukları toplumda örf, adet veinanışlarını yaşatmak için yalın ve işlevsel olan giyimlerini sürekli şekillendirmişlerdir.Bununla birlikte insanoğlunun en eski ihtiyaçlarından biri olan tekstil, giyiminhammaddesi olarak tarihi süreç içerisinde zanaat, sanat ve teknolojiyle beslenerek farklıgörselliklerle, farklı boyutlarla ve farklı kullanım amaçlarıyla karşımıza çıkmaktadır.Bugün giyimi kullanım yerlerine ve amaçlarına göre sınıflandıracak olursak, bütüngiysilerin görsel etkisini ve zenginliğini arttırmak için farklı süsleme ve işlemetekniklerinin uygulandığı görülmektedir.Özellikle düğün törenlerinde ve diğer ulusal bayramlarda giyilen gelenekselgiysiler birçok doğal ve sentetik malzemeyle süslenmektedir. Zanaat kavramı içindekılaptan, sim veya sırma gibi metal yapılı iplikler süsleme veya detaylandıracak olursaknakış tekniklerinin ana malzemeleri olarak bilinmektedir.Makedonya’da tarihte var olan birçok zanaat yok olup yerini endüstriyel ürünlerebırakırken sırmacılık zanaatının halen varlığını sürdürmesi geleneklere bağlı birtoplumdan kaynaklanmaktadır. Toplumda giyimiyle rekabet eden insanlar, tekstili temelalarak beğenilmek, fark edilmek, zenginlik ve asillik gibi olguları yaratma hedefiylebilinçli ya da bilinçsiz, estetik veya estetik olmayan bir biçimde giyim geleneğiyle zanaat,tekstil ve insan arasındaki ilişkiyi güçlendirmektedir.Tam da bu noktada araştırmanın amacı şekillenmektedir. Müzelerin depolarında,sandıklarda hangi şartlar altında hayatta kalma mücadelesi verdiği bilinmeyen gelenekselgiysilerin kumaş, renk, desen, süsleme, biçim ve kalıp özelliklerinin incelenmesi günyüzüne çıkarılması, günümüz geleneksel giysilerin tanınması ve tanıtılması, tasarımcıyagüncel ve özgün tasarımlar için kolaylık sağlayacak yazılı kaynaklar oluşturması temelamaçtır.
SUMMARYClothing is a phenomenon with which people can express their statuses in public,their personalities, likes, ages, characteristic features as well as their sociological, nationaland religious characteristics. When the history of clothing is overviewed, it can be seenthat clothing has always been in a transition from one phase to another. Humankind hasalways developed their simple and functional clothing to embody the customs and beliefsof their societies. On the other hand, as being the staple of clothing; textile, which is oneof the oldest needs of the human kind, has been confronting with people in variousvisualities, dimensions and with different usage purposes by benefitting from art, craftand technology within the historical process. If clothing is to be classified by its usageareas and purposes today, it is seen that there are different adornment and processingtechniques that are implemented to enhance the charm and richness of all the clothes.Traditional clothes that are used especially for weddings and national fests areadorned with several natural and synthetic materials. Within the concept of the crafting,metalwork threads like gold thread, tinsel or silver thread are known as the essentialmaterials of adornment; or in a detailed word, the main materials of embroiderytechniques.While plenty of historical craftwork is vanishing and yielding its place to theindustrial products in Macedonia, the reason behind the ongoing existence of silver threadcraftwork is the conventionality of the society. People, who compete via their clothing,enhance the relationship between clothing tradition and craft work, textile and humankind with the aim of creating phenomena such as being liked, being wealthy and royal inan aesthetical or non-aesthetical way, consciously or unconsciously.The purpose of this study, which takes shape at this point, is to examine and revealthe fabric, color, design, adornment, form and pattern features of traditional clothes ofwhich the survival struggle in museum depots under which circumstances is unknown tous and to identify and introduce today’s traditional clothes
SUMMARYClothing is a phenomenon with which people can express their statuses in public,their personalities, likes, ages, characteristic features as well as their sociological, nationaland religious characteristics. When the history of clothing is overviewed, it can be seenthat clothing has always been in a transition from one phase to another. Humankind hasalways developed their simple and functional clothing to embody the customs and beliefsof their societies. On the other hand, as being the staple of clothing; textile, which is oneof the oldest needs of the human kind, has been confronting with people in variousvisualities, dimensions and with different usage purposes by benefitting from art, craftand technology within the historical process. If clothing is to be classified by its usageareas and purposes today, it is seen that there are different adornment and processingtechniques that are implemented to enhance the charm and richness of all the clothes.Traditional clothes that are used especially for weddings and national fests areadorned with several natural and synthetic materials. Within the concept of the crafting,metalwork threads like gold thread, tinsel or silver thread are known as the essentialmaterials of adornment; or in a detailed word, the main materials of embroiderytechniques.While plenty of historical craftwork is vanishing and yielding its place to theindustrial products in Macedonia, the reason behind the ongoing existence of silver threadcraftwork is the conventionality of the society. People, who compete via their clothing,enhance the relationship between clothing tradition and craft work, textile and humankind with the aim of creating phenomena such as being liked, being wealthy and royal inan aesthetical or non-aesthetical way, consciously or unconsciously.The purpose of this study, which takes shape at this point, is to examine and revealthe fabric, color, design, adornment, form and pattern features of traditional clothes ofwhich the survival struggle in museum depots under which circumstances is unknown tous and to identify and introduce today’s traditional clothes