Publication: Türk Silahlı Kuvvetleri bayan subay üniformalarında standartlar
Abstract
TSK bayan subay sayısının giderek artması nedeniyle, önceleri terzilik usulüyle yapılan üniforma üretiminden vazgeçilerek seri üretime başlanmıştır. Bu nedenle bayan subaylar için standart bir ölçü tablosuna gerek duyulmuştur. Bayan subayların üniformalarının standardizasyonuna yönelik bu çalışma da, verilerin temin edilmesi ve analizi ile standart bir ölçü tablosunun geliştirilmesinde Ankara, İstanbul, İzmir ve Bursa'da askeri okullarda, askeri hastanelerde ve askeri birliklerde görev yapan 22-44 yaş grubu içerisinde yer alan bayan subaylar arasında örneklem grubu seçilmiştir. Örneklem grubuna önce üniformaları ile ilgili görüşlerinin belirlenmesi için anket uygulanmıştır. Bu uygulamada, bayanların üniformaları ile ilgili görüşleri değerlendirilerek kıyafetlerinde yapılması gereken değişiklikler tespit edilmiştir. Anket bulguları doğrultusunda standart ölçü tablosu hazırlanması için örneklem grubu üzerinden vücut ölçüleri alınmıştır. Veriler örneklem gurubunu temsil eden 404 bayan subay üzerinden tek tek ölçüm yapılarak temin edilmiştir. Bu ölçümlerde 11716 vücut ölçüsü alınmıştır. Elde edilen bu veriler SPSS istatistik erlendirilmiş ve ölçülerin normal dağılım gösterdiği belirlenmiştir. Bayan subayların orduya kabulünde aranan boy ve kilo kriterlerinin de etkisi ile temel öçlülerde sapmaların aynı yaş grubundaki sivil bayanların ölçülerine nazaran daha aza olduğu gözlenmiştir. Daha önce bu konuda yapılan çalışmalarda göğüs çevresi, basen çevresi ve tam boy ölçülerinin faktörleri temsil eden en iyi ölçüler olduğu bilinmektedir. Standartlar saptanırken bu durum göz önünde tutularak göğüs çevresi, basen çevresi ve tam boy değişkenlerinin esas alınması ile beden kategorileri belirlenmiştir. Beden aralıklarının 4 cm olarak belirlendiği bu sistemde uzun, kısa ve normal olmak üzere üç boy grubu ve göğüs çevresi, basen çevresi arasındaki ilişkiye göre de üç figür tipi belirlenmiştir. Her boy grubunda, üç farklı basen tipine göre tasarlanan dokuz beden kategorisindeki ikincil ölçüler hesaplanarak beden tabloları elde edilmiştir. Standart ölçü tablolarının ve boy-basen ölçülerine göre figür tiplerinin belirlenmesinin sonucunda istatistiksel olarak bedenlere göre boy ve figür tiplerinin frekans ve yüzde dağılım oranları saptanmıştır. Bununla bedenlerin boy ve figür tiplerine göre miktarlarının oransal olarak belirlenmesi ve üretimdeki sıklıkları tespit edilmiştir. Belirli bir çizim sistemine oturtulmak istenen üniforma kalıplarının hazırlanmasında uluslar arası ölçüm sistemlerine uygun boy ve figür gruplarına yönelik ölçü tablolarının bulunduğu, tüm giysi türlerinin hazırlanmasında yeterli sayıda ölçünün kullanıldığı ve her hangi bir hesaplamaya veya bir formüle ihtiyaç duyulmayan, işlem basamaklarının her kes tarafından kolaylıkla anlaşılabildiği bir sistem Contec tercih edilmiştir. Üniformayı meydana getiren ve bu çalışmada esas kabul edilen etek, pantolon,ceket ve yazlık dahili gömlek kalıpları, bayan ölçülerinin istatistiksel analizi ile elde edilen ölçü tablolarına göre hazırlanmıştır. Kalıplar temel çizim sistem ile oluşturulmuş ve daha sonra şablon getirilmek üzere gerekli dikiş payları ve işaretleri ilave edilmiştir. Elde edilen şablonlar astar ve tela kalıplarının hazırlanmasında da kullanılmıştır. Çizimler bilgisayar destekli tasarım ve kalıp sistemlerinden biri olan CAD-Grafis sisteminde hazırlanmıştır. Kalıp çalışmasına başlamadan önce ölçü tabloları Grafis bilgisayar sistemine girilmiş ve kalıpların elde edilmesinden sonra otomatik olarak serilendirilmiş ve tüm bedenlerin kalıpları elde edilmiştir. Serilendirilmiş kalıplar üzerinden alınan seri değerleri tabloları haline getirilmiştir. Elde edilen ve tablo haline getirilen bu değerler dikimevlerinde bulunan diğer bilgisayar sistemlerinde kullanılmaya elverişli ve kesin verilerdir. Bu çalışma ile her giysi türü için model tanımlaması, parça listesi, kalıp çizimleri, işlem basamakları, serilendirme, seri değerleri tablosu ve bitmiş giysi için kontrol ölçüleri hazırlanmıştır. Hazırlanan kalıplar askeri dikimevlerinde( Deniz ve Kara) numune dikilerek denenmiştir. Çalışma sonucunda elde edilen standart öçlü tablosu, üniformalarda aynı kalıp sistemi ve model birliği sağlanması ile, bayan subay üniformalarının üretimde standartlaştırma konusunda bir başlangıç yapılmıştır.
STANDARTS OF WOMAN OFFICER'S UNIFORM In the beginning , uniform production was done by tailoring method, but afterwards it has turned to mass production due to the increase in TSK woman officers. Because of this reason , the need for standard size table for woman officers has been increased. Due to the standardization on woman officers' uniform ; woman officers between ages 22-45 were selected as a model group who are working in Military Schools in Ankara, İstanbul,İzmir and Bursa ; Military Hospitals and Military Union , in order to form a standard size table by assuring and analyzing the datas. Inquiry was given to the model group to determine their opinion on the uniforms. In this application, changes in the uniforms were pointed out by taking the woman officers' opinions on their uniforms into account. According to the inquiry , model groups' sizes were taken to prepare standard size table. Datas were assured from 404 woman officers representing the model group by taking the sizes one by one. In this measurement, 11,716 sizes were taken. These datas were obtained by SPSS statistics program and showed that the measurements were normally distributed. With the effect of the weight and height criterias on the admission of woman officers in the military, the deviation on the woman officers' sizes was lower than the civilian sizes between the same age group. It is known that the best alternative for the size factors is the chest size, hip size and height according to the studies done before. During the fixation of these standards, size categories were determined depending on the changeable chest size, hip size and height. Size interval was determined as 4 cm in this system. There are 3 height groups and crest sizes as tall, short, and normal ; and there are 3 figure types according to the relationship between hip sizes. In each height group, size tables were formed due to the calculation of the secondary sizes in the 9 size categories composed of 3 different hip types. As a result of the determination of the figure types due to the standard size tables and height-hip sizes, frequency of figure types and the percentage distribution of the sizes were established statistically. With this establishment , the ratio of the amount of sizes depending on the height and figure types and production frequencies were determined. Contec is preffered because it is a system which is appropriate for international size system ; there are tables for height and figure groups ; appreciable number of sizes are used in the preparation of all cloth types ; there is no need for any calculations or formulas for the size employement. Skirt, trouser, jacket and shirt which form the uniform, were prepared according to the table accomplished by the statistical analysis of woman offices' sizes. Casts were formed by major drawing system and afterwards necessary seam portions and marks were added to make patterns from casts. These patterns were used for the preparation of stiffening and linning. CAD Grafis computer program was used for drawings. Before forming casts, size tables were put into the Grafis computer system and after forming casts, this procedure was done automatically and all sizes' casts were formed. Tables were formed from serial numbers of automated casts. These tables contained appropriate datas that can be used in other computer cast systems in workshops. By the help of this system; model definitions, cloth lists, cast drawings, serial value tables and control prameters for ready clothes were prepared for each type of cloth. Prepared casts were tried in Military Workshops by sewing samples. Standard size tables obtained as a result of this study is the beginning of the standardization of woman officers' uniform production.
STANDARTS OF WOMAN OFFICER'S UNIFORM In the beginning , uniform production was done by tailoring method, but afterwards it has turned to mass production due to the increase in TSK woman officers. Because of this reason , the need for standard size table for woman officers has been increased. Due to the standardization on woman officers' uniform ; woman officers between ages 22-45 were selected as a model group who are working in Military Schools in Ankara, İstanbul,İzmir and Bursa ; Military Hospitals and Military Union , in order to form a standard size table by assuring and analyzing the datas. Inquiry was given to the model group to determine their opinion on the uniforms. In this application, changes in the uniforms were pointed out by taking the woman officers' opinions on their uniforms into account. According to the inquiry , model groups' sizes were taken to prepare standard size table. Datas were assured from 404 woman officers representing the model group by taking the sizes one by one. In this measurement, 11,716 sizes were taken. These datas were obtained by SPSS statistics program and showed that the measurements were normally distributed. With the effect of the weight and height criterias on the admission of woman officers in the military, the deviation on the woman officers' sizes was lower than the civilian sizes between the same age group. It is known that the best alternative for the size factors is the chest size, hip size and height according to the studies done before. During the fixation of these standards, size categories were determined depending on the changeable chest size, hip size and height. Size interval was determined as 4 cm in this system. There are 3 height groups and crest sizes as tall, short, and normal ; and there are 3 figure types according to the relationship between hip sizes. In each height group, size tables were formed due to the calculation of the secondary sizes in the 9 size categories composed of 3 different hip types. As a result of the determination of the figure types due to the standard size tables and height-hip sizes, frequency of figure types and the percentage distribution of the sizes were established statistically. With this establishment , the ratio of the amount of sizes depending on the height and figure types and production frequencies were determined. Contec is preffered because it is a system which is appropriate for international size system ; there are tables for height and figure groups ; appreciable number of sizes are used in the preparation of all cloth types ; there is no need for any calculations or formulas for the size employement. Skirt, trouser, jacket and shirt which form the uniform, were prepared according to the table accomplished by the statistical analysis of woman offices' sizes. Casts were formed by major drawing system and afterwards necessary seam portions and marks were added to make patterns from casts. These patterns were used for the preparation of stiffening and linning. CAD Grafis computer program was used for drawings. Before forming casts, size tables were put into the Grafis computer system and after forming casts, this procedure was done automatically and all sizes' casts were formed. Tables were formed from serial numbers of automated casts. These tables contained appropriate datas that can be used in other computer cast systems in workshops. By the help of this system; model definitions, cloth lists, cast drawings, serial value tables and control prameters for ready clothes were prepared for each type of cloth. Prepared casts were tried in Military Workshops by sewing samples. Standard size tables obtained as a result of this study is the beginning of the standardization of woman officers' uniform production.