Publication: 18.Yy ve 19. Yy. Dönem tablolarından örneklerle osmanlı dönemi̇ kadın kıyafetleri̇ni̇n gi̇yi̇m sanatları açısından değerlendi̇ri̇lmesi̇
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Date
2021-12-27
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Abstract
Örtünme ve doğal koşullardan korunma dürtüsüyle temel bir gereklilik olarak ortaya çıkan
giyim ihtiyacı, zamanla toplumların kendine özgü kültürel özelliklerini yansıtan giyim
tarzlarına dönüşmüştür.
İlk zamanlarda temel gerekçelerle örtünen insanoğlu, zamanla kıyafet veya giysi adı verilen bu
bilinçli örtünmeyi, bazı kültürlerde ulusal kimliklerini vurgulayacak biçimde farklılıklar
yaratarak geliştirmişlerdir. Öyle ki bazı topluluklar giysileri ile rahatlıkla ayırt edilebilir
olmuştur.
Bu bağlamda Türk kadın kıyafetlerinin, Orta Asya'dan başlayarak Anadolu'ya kadar süren ve
bu topraklarda devam eden tarihsel sürecinde çok zengin bir giyim kuşam kültürüne sahip
olduğu görülmektedir. Orta Asya Türk kadın giyimine ilişkin çok az sayıda bilgi, yapılan
kazılar ve araştırmalar sonucu ortaya çıkarılabilmiş, günümüze kalabilen örneklerin azlığı ve
zamana bağlı olarak yıpranmış olması Orta Asya Türk kadın giyimi konusunda kesin sonuçlar
alınmasını engellemiştir.
Selçuklu dönemine ait giysiler hakkında döneme ilişkin az sayıda kalabilen giysi örnekleri,
minyatürler ve seyahatnameler, dönemin giysi özelliklerinin belirlenmesinde önemli katkılar
sağlamıştır. Türk kadın giyiminde en zengin, görkemli örnekler ise Osmanlı döneminde
görülmekte olup, döneme ilişkin günümüze kalabilen örnekler çeşitli müzelerde sergilenmekte,
dönem tablolarında incelikle betimlenmekte, seyahatnamelerde ayrıntılı olarak tarif
edilmektedir.
Osmanlı İmparatorluğu ve Doğu, 15.YY.’dan itibaren Batı’nın ilgisini çekmiş, Avrupa’nın
çeşitli sınıflardan insanları, aydınları, sanatçıları, çok erken dönemlerden başlayarak gizemli,
kendilerine görece kapalı dünyanın büyüsüne kapılmışlardır. Değişik dönemlerde birçok yazar,
sanatçı, seyyah bu gizemin izini sürmüş, yapıtlarında bazen gerçeklikleri, bazen de kendi
hayallerini anlatmış, öyküleştirmiş, betimlemişlerdir. Özellikle 18.YY’da diplomatik ve ticari
ilişkilerin artması, birçok diplomat, tüccar, gezgin ve ressamı Osmanlı topraklarına gelmesine
neden olmuştur. Türk tarzı yaşam modasına kapılan birçok Avrupalı sanatçı Osmanlı dünyasını,
kültürünü, yaşamını, giyim kuşamını zengin bir çeşitlilikle betimleyerek tarihin görsel belleğine
işlemişlerdir.
Bu çalışmada, Tük kadın giyiminin en zengin örneklerinin olduğu Osmanlı Dönemi 18.YY ve
19.YY. kadın kıyafetleri, dönemin ressamlarının tablolarında yer alan betimlemeler doğrultusunda giyim sanatları açısından değerlendirilerek, model-kesim özellikleri, malzeme
ve süsleme özellikleri ile kıyafeti tamamlayan ögeler tespit edilmeye çalışılmıştır.
Bu çalışma, tarama modeline dayalı mevcut durumu ortaya koymaya yönelik nitel bir saha
çalışmasıdır. Çalışmaya temel teşkil edecek dönem tablolarının belirlemesi amacıyla konu ile
ilgili kaynaklar taranarak, kıyafet özelliklerinin ayrıntılı olarak betimlendiği eserler seçilerek
inceleme kapsamına alınmıştır.
The need for clothing, which emerged as a basic necessity with the urge to cover and protect from natural conditions, has transformed into clothing styles that reflect the unique cultural characteristics of societies over time. In the early days, human beings covered themselves for basic reasons, and over time, they developed this conscious covering, called clothing or clothing, by creating differences in some cultures to emphasize their national identities. So much so that some communities can be easily distinguished by their clothes. In this context, it is seen that Turkish women's clothing has a very rich clothing culture in the historical process starting from Central Asia and continuing to Anatolia and continuing in these lands. Very little information about Central Asian Turkish women's clothing could be found as a result of excavations and researches, and the scarcity of surviving examples and their wear due to time prevented definitive results on Central Asian Turkish women's clothing. The few examples of clothes, miniatures and travelogues about the clothes of the Seljuk period have made important contributions to the determination of the clothing characteristics of the period. The richest and most magnificent examples of Turkish women's clothing can be seen in the Ottoman period, and the surviving examples of the period are exhibited in various museums, are described gracefully in period tables, and are described in detail in travelogues. The Ottoman Empire and the East attracted the attention of the West since the 15th century, and people of various classes, intellectuals and artists of Europe were fascinated by the mysterious, relatively closed world, starting from very early times. In different periods, many writers, artists, travelers have followed the traces of this mystery, sometimes telling realities and sometimes their own dreams, narrating and describing in their works. The increase in diplomatic and commercial relations, especially in the 18th century, caused many diplomats, merchants, travelers and painters to come to the Ottoman lands. Many European artists, caught up in the Turkish style of living, depicted the Ottoman world, culture, life, and clothing with a rich variety and imprinted them in the visual memory of history. In this study, the richest examples of Turkish women's clothing, the Ottoman Period, 18th and 19th centuries. Women's clothes were evaluated in terms of clothing arts in line with the descriptions in the paintings of the painters of the period, and it was tried to determine the model-cut features, material and ornament features and the elements that complement the outfit. This study is a qualitative field study to reveal the current situation based on the scanning model. In order to determine the period tables that will form the basis of the study, the sources related to the subject were scanned, the works in which the clothing features were described in detail were selected and included in the scope of the study.
The need for clothing, which emerged as a basic necessity with the urge to cover and protect from natural conditions, has transformed into clothing styles that reflect the unique cultural characteristics of societies over time. In the early days, human beings covered themselves for basic reasons, and over time, they developed this conscious covering, called clothing or clothing, by creating differences in some cultures to emphasize their national identities. So much so that some communities can be easily distinguished by their clothes. In this context, it is seen that Turkish women's clothing has a very rich clothing culture in the historical process starting from Central Asia and continuing to Anatolia and continuing in these lands. Very little information about Central Asian Turkish women's clothing could be found as a result of excavations and researches, and the scarcity of surviving examples and their wear due to time prevented definitive results on Central Asian Turkish women's clothing. The few examples of clothes, miniatures and travelogues about the clothes of the Seljuk period have made important contributions to the determination of the clothing characteristics of the period. The richest and most magnificent examples of Turkish women's clothing can be seen in the Ottoman period, and the surviving examples of the period are exhibited in various museums, are described gracefully in period tables, and are described in detail in travelogues. The Ottoman Empire and the East attracted the attention of the West since the 15th century, and people of various classes, intellectuals and artists of Europe were fascinated by the mysterious, relatively closed world, starting from very early times. In different periods, many writers, artists, travelers have followed the traces of this mystery, sometimes telling realities and sometimes their own dreams, narrating and describing in their works. The increase in diplomatic and commercial relations, especially in the 18th century, caused many diplomats, merchants, travelers and painters to come to the Ottoman lands. Many European artists, caught up in the Turkish style of living, depicted the Ottoman world, culture, life, and clothing with a rich variety and imprinted them in the visual memory of history. In this study, the richest examples of Turkish women's clothing, the Ottoman Period, 18th and 19th centuries. Women's clothes were evaluated in terms of clothing arts in line with the descriptions in the paintings of the painters of the period, and it was tried to determine the model-cut features, material and ornament features and the elements that complement the outfit. This study is a qualitative field study to reveal the current situation based on the scanning model. In order to determine the period tables that will form the basis of the study, the sources related to the subject were scanned, the works in which the clothing features were described in detail were selected and included in the scope of the study.
Description
Keywords
Sosyal ve Beşeri Bilimler, Sanat, Tekstil ve Moda Tasarımı, Social Sciences and Humanities, Art, Textile and Fashion Designing, Sanat ve Beşeri Bilimler (AHCI), Sosyal Bilimler (SOC), Sanat ve Beşeri Bilimler, SANAT, Arts & Humanities (AHCI), Social Sciences (SOC), ARTS & HUMANITIES, ART, Museology, Visual Arts and Performing Arts, Social Sciences & Humanities, Ottoman Period Clothing, Women's Clothing, History of Clothing, Osmanlı Dönemi Kıyafetleri, Kadın Giyimi, Giysi Tarihi
Citation
Öznaz D., İşgören A. N., Bayburtlu Ç., Acar Büyükpehlivan G., \"18.yy ve 19. yy. Dönem Tablolarından Örneklerle Osmanlı Dönemı̇ Kadın Kıyafetlerı̇nı̇n Gı̇yı̇m Sanatları Açısından Değerlendı̇rı̇lmesı̇ (18th And 19th Century The Evaluation Of Women's Clothing in The Ottoman Period With Examples From The Period Tables in Terms Of Clothing Arts 9\", 7th International Mardin Artuklu Scientific Researches Conference December 10-12, 2021, Mardin, Türkiye, 10 Aralık 2021, ss.137-139